The consumption of wine in communal settings probably predates our species, according to findings from anthropologists and archeologists. (Cue the Drunken Monkey hypothesis).
The oldest-known winery was excavated in modern-day Armenia circa 4000 B.C. Remnants of wine on pots found in China date back 9,000 years.
Winemaking and consumption shaped ancient cultures and religions, from the ancient Greeks to the Christians. (Who can forget that Noah’s first to-do after parking the ark on Mount Ararat was planting a vineyard)?
And it was, from the get-go, primarily a locally produced, social beverage, associated with food, celebration, and community. Beginning in the 18th century, winemaking and consumption began to change. It became a more globalized affair, and a whiff of exclusivity began to infiltrate the selling and sipping of wine.
Today, the notion of what wine is and can be feels, to many, dangerously divorced from the reality of what wine is and can be. Which is why the movement Come Over October was born.
Founded by author Karen MacNeil, founder and president of Charles Communication Associates Kimberly Noelle Charles president of communications firm Colangelo & Partners Gino Colangelo, the movement was created to bring wine back to its roots and encourage people to invite family and friends, new and old, over for a glass of wine during the month of October.
It’s a simple idea, and a straightforward mission that eliminates the pomp and circumstance, and yes, overconsumption that can sometimes permeate certain corners of American wine culture.
It is resonating among casual and professional wine enthusiasts alike in New York.
“I think that Come Over October captures the spirit of New York wine country,” says Sam Filler, executive director of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation and vice chair on the board of directors for the Wine Market Council. “New York wine growers and makers are generally grape farmers. They’re making a diverse range of cool climate wines that are perfect for enjoying with food and among friends. It is about as far from elitist as you can get.”
Why New York?
There are close to 500 active wineries in the Empire State, making wine from grapes grown on 35,000 acres, and as Filler points out, the vast majority are small, and family-owned and operated.
This means that, whether by design or not, they deliver exactly what critics say the wine industry is sorely lacking.
“It’s true that overall, the wine industry could do a better job of being approachable and accessible to a diverse range of people,” Filler says. “The generations coming up now look different and want different things than previous generations. Because New York grapes are such a large part of our entire state’s history and its agricultural fabric, the wines and wineries that have emerged are as diverse as the American populace. There is something for everyone here.”
Melissa Heath, administrative specialist at the New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets says that sipping New York wine is analogous to enjoying time with family and friends.
“New York wines mean bringing people together,” Heath says. “I often look forward to sharing a glass of Red Cat outside on a summer afternoon or sharing a Long Stem red from Lakewood and family during the holidays.”
For folks like Debbie Gioquindo, who was born and raised in the Empire State, championing homegrown wines is part of her DNA. She is the author of Tapping the Hudson Valley and chairwoman of the Hudson Valley Wine, Spirit & Cider Competition, and she feels as connected to the spirit of Come Over October as the people who grow grapes here.
“I’ve watched New York wines grow and evolve, much like I’ve seen my own children mature,” Gioquindo says. “From humble beginnings to something remarkable, and continuing to strive to new heights. I take immense pride in both the wines and the passionate people who are behind them.”
Why Come Over?
Sharing her pride with others goes hand in hand with Gioquindo’s sense of pride of place and hospitality, which means that this October, she’ll be inviting people over with even more enthusiasm than usual.
“I believe drinking wine is an inherently social activity,” Gioquindo says. “It’s a wonderful way to bring people together and foster connections that often turn into lifelong friendships. After a busy summer, I’m looking forward to participating in Come Over October as a perfect opportunity to reconnect with neighbors and friends I haven’t seen in a while.”
For her part, Heath plans to get together with her sister and her husband to celebrate their “many years of wine trail adventures, and our love of New York State wine.”
Filler has a new baby to toast.
“I can’t wait to get together with family and friends in a few weeks and celebrate the birth of my son with New York sparkling wines,” he says.
There are innumerable reasons to celebrate. Which begs the question: how are you going to toast to October and New York wines?
Images from Living Roots Wine & Co. and Milea Estate Vineyard from Rima Brindamour.