Wine-making has evolved considerably in the Empire State in the past century. 

Post-Prohibition, New York’s vineyards were predominantly planted with native grapes and French-American hybrids. Vitis vinifera had a tough time thriving in the state, and there was a general acceptance that the popular European varieties never would. But in the 1950s, Dr. Konstantin Frank refused to accept that premise.

Dr. Frank, a scientist and viticulturist, emigrated from Ukraine to the U.S. and settled in the Finger Lakes region. Having grown vinifera in the severe cold temperatures of the Ukraine, he believed it could be done in the Finger Lakes. He experimented with grafting vinifera onto American rootstock, and with some trial and error, found success. As Cornell puts it, he changed the course of New York wines.

Now, in the majority of the state’s wine regions grapes such as Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon thrive in New York’s terroir.

So why might New York grape growers consider increasing the plantings of hybrid grapes when wine professionals such as Dr. Frank (and many vintners who followed) considered the grapes as largely inferior to vinifera? 

The Draw of Hybrids

The introduction of vinifera to New York’s vineyards didn’t cause hybrid grapes to disappear completely from the state. But hybrids did eventually take second place in all but the coldest regions. Now, New York winemakers in (almost) all regions are embracing hybrids once again, for a variety of reasons including quality and climate suitability. They are enthusiastic about producing wine from varieties such as Traminette, Seyval Blanc, Cayuga, Vidal, Vignoles, Baco Noir, Dechaunac, Leon Millot, Marechal Foch, Frontenac and Vincent.

Research and growing trials have certainly improved the quality of hybrids over the years, but they aren’t the predominant reasons many modern winemakers seek these oft-maligned grapes out.

“As our climate changes we’re seeing not just warmer climates, which is generally helping New York growers at the moment,” says Greg Gardner, Professor of Business Administration SUNY Potsdam.

Gardner is currently involved in an ongoing research initiative to study the impacts of global climate change on wine production and wine tourism. “We’re also seeing the arrival of a new set of pests—both microorganisms and insects. We’re seeing changes in weather patterns, more—or less—rain, more hail, earlier bud break followed by painful frosts, earlier harvests, and things of that nature,” he says. “Hybrids are better at surviving those things and dealing with them.”

Reluctant Hybrid Wine Drinkers?

However, if New York’s wineries embrace hybrids, but wine drinkers are resistant to drinking them, there’s a real problem. 

Enter market research. Along with his colleagues, Gardner set out to understand the levels of awareness and impressions consumers had of New York State-produced wines in general, and New York State-produced wines from hybrid (and native) grapes specifically.

Through surveys, focus groups, and speaking with wine retail professionals, they created a snapshot of how wine consumers on three different levels—expert (average age 51.6), intermediate (average age 52), and novice (average age 40.5)—are likely to embrace wines made from hybrids as well as native grapes. Their findings are published in the report, Teaching Consumers to Love NYS and Native/Hybrid Grape Wines. The Development of an Executable Education and Communication Strategy. 

The focus groups did a blind tasting of well-made wines produced mainly with hybrids or native grapes, but they did not know that until afterward. 

“The experts generally said, ‘We knew these were hybrids,’” says Gardener. “The intermediates sort of said they knew, but they were surprised [the hybrids] were so good. The novices didn’t really understand the significance of the wines being from hybrid grapes. They thought they were good.”

While there may be a prevailing belief in the wine industry that wine drinkers are not open to wines made from hybrids, that doesn’t seem to be the case. Rather, education about the grapes and experience with their final product may be what’s needed.

Selling Hybrid Wines May Come Down to Exposure  

In the report from their research, Gardner’s group found that “wine novices and intermediates, often reported very little real familiarity with these wines, especially native/hybrids.” They concluded that those demographics stay away from hybrids not because they don’t like them, but because they are not familiar with them.

“I am reasonably optimistic, at least in the median term, people—if they are exposed to good examples of hybrid wines—will like them and will drink them,” says Gardner. “The challenge is getting them to try them for the first time. The novices in particular, especially as their incomes increase and they get older and integrate wine in their lifestyle, I think they will be quite happy to drink these wines and probably prefer them in many cases.”

While the expert wine drinkers in the study were generally “impressed with the quality of the hybrids” they tasted, they are probably not the target consumers for hybrids. The younger, less experienced wine drinkers may be the best groups to go after. They can be hooked by describing hybrids as a unique experience or by telling stories about the wine that relate to their values such as combating climate change or commitment to organic farming.

“One of the things we suspected going in based on other research we had read is that we saw the importance of understanding your customer’s level of expertise. That turned out to have a real significant impact on the way people received these wines,” Gardner says. 

Wine Retailers Weigh In

Interviews with wine retail professionals—those on the front lines of selling these wines—confirmed what the scientists found in the research. When asked about the challenges of selling New York State wines made from hybrids (or native grapes), the retail professionals surveyed said it “was easier than expected.” 

Indicating that many customers don’t care about specific grape varieties, the lower selling price of wines made from hybrids compared to those made from vinifera was attractive to consumers. Also, using the word “local” rather than hybrid or clone plus good storytelling helped to sell wines produced from hybrid grapes. Finally, trusting the person selling the wine—having a long-term relationship with them—was more important than marketing points.

“I now believe there is a bright future for wines made from hybrids and native grapes. I think that as climate change continues to progress those grapes are going to become more and more important to New York and also many other places in the world,” Gardner says. 

Are Hybrids Right for All of New York State?

Hybrid wines may have a bright future in New York, but will that future be bright in all regions? A separate experiment conducted by Alice Wise, Sr. Issue Educator/Viticulturist at Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County, took on growing hybrids on Long Island, where 99% of the grapes currently grown are vinifera. Wise published her findings in a report titled Evaluation of Hybrid Winegrape Varieties on Long Island.

At the Extension, Wise has had a vinifera variety trial for 31 years. More recently, she also planted various small blocks of 12 hybrid winegrape varieties to explore whether they were an option for Long Island and to give growers a preview of what they taste like.

“I explored whether they had anything to offer for Long Island in terms of quality,” she says. “They’re cheaper. Ideally, they’re less expensive to manage and more productive.”

But the question remained: Could they find a fit in the industry in Long Island?

Although there is a little more interest in hybrids than there used to be on Long Island, its winemakers are “very hesitant” to embrace them, according to Wise. Quality and name recognition are the main concerns that keep vintners from planting hybrids in their own vineyards.

Couple that reality with the fact that Long Island winemakers can buy hybrid grapes—if they want to use them—for less money from growers in Upstate New York than they can by planting and producing them on Long Island.  

To change that, “it’s going to take some brave soul jumping on board and actually doing it in a commercial way,” Wise says.

While Long Island’s maritime climate protects its vineyards from the damage the rest of the state’s wine regions experience from some extreme weather events, Wise advises there could be some environmental benefits to growing hybrids, especially when it comes to spraying. Hybrid vines can be managed with approximately half of the fungicides needed to grow vinifera. She also believes that continued evaluation is necessary. 

But most importantly, her research concluded, “It is essential that these varieties demonstrate they are capable of consistently producing high-quality fruit.”

Hybrids produced in the state are already proving they can do that: Keuka Lake Vineyards’ Leon Millot, a French American hybrid, recently walked away with the Best Red Wine Award at the 2022 New York Wine Classic.